In the court of Heian Japan, one’s clothing visibly symbolized one’s rank—an onlooker could determine at a glance, based on the colors and even the fabrics worn, what a person’s rank would be. In that sense, clothing symbolizes not only one’s status within the complex court hierarchy, but the level of respect one is thereby owed. Throughout her diary, Sei Shōnagon seldom describes other people’s physical attributes, but she describes their outfits in detail and assesses the wearer’s worth accordingly. For example, a young man might be an unremarkable, low-ranking courtier unworthy of notice. However, when he’s promoted to Chamberlain and permitted to wear the green color associated with the emperor, the same man is suddenly looked upon as if he’s an exalted being. Thus, clothing symbolizes the stratified social hierarchy among Japanese courtiers, as well as the arbitrary nature of these different statuses.
Clothing Quotes in The Pillow Book
A Chamberlain of the sixth rank. He’s a quite splendid sight in those special green robes he’s allowed to wear, and he can wear damask, which even a high-ranking young nobleman is forbidden. Subordinate officials in the Chamberlain’s office […] look quite inconsequential at the time, but if they become Chamberlains they undergo an astonishing transformation. When they appear as bearer of an imperial pronouncement, or present the imperial gifts of sweet chestnuts and so forth at one of the great ministerial banquets, from the magnificent way they’re received you’d think they were heavenly beings descended to earth!
I never intended this book to be seen by others, so I’ve written whatever came into my mind, without worrying about whether people would find it strange or unpleasant.
Clothing Symbol Timeline in The Pillow Book
